Alice in Wonderland Costumer Colleen Atwood: 'It's Going To Be Amazing'

Now when you do something historically accurate and less fanciful than something like Alice in Wonderland, such as Public Enemies, how much research goes into it before you even sketch your first drawing?

In a story like Public Enemies, it's about people who existed, so you go to that trough, using what few images of them existed. Actually when I do period work, I really like to read about the period as much as I like to look at pictures, because sometimes the written word is much better at conveying what their lives were really like and how much they had, and where their clothes came from. Because a lot of time, people dressed in their Sunday best to pose for a picture. They didn't take snapshots until much later -- there certainly wasn't much of that going on in the 1930s.

For most of these guys, it was mugshots and prison entrance and exit clothes, but I had a lot of people do online research, and Michael Mann of course had been on the project for a long time and had very deep research and was quite specific. The production designer usually starts a show before I do and they usually have a depth of research. So it's a combination of all that.

You have some TV credits as well, such as The Tick. Did you design The Tick's costume?

Yeah. The pilot.

Is it true The Tick's moving antennae cost $1 million to produce?

Not the ones I did. Maybe later when they did the series they spent more money, but I did the pilot. I remember the amount that costume cost, as a matter of fact, and the budget for that kind of TV pilot is usually much higher. I didn't have the kind of R&D you get when they decide to really go for it.

What was the most expensive costume you've ever made?

I'd say probably the most expensive costumes I've ever made were the costumes in The Planet of the Apes, because of the research and development that went into them and the amount of layers. I got the cost per costume down, but because it involved so many processes, with sculpting, and bodysuits, and cool suits, and oversuits, and helmets, and footwear, and handwear, that had to work for action and look like monkeys, that was probably the most expensive per-unit costume ever. The period stuff I spend a lot of time on, I have good textile artists. They're not cheap, but they're not out of control expensive either, because you have to make it work.

Speaking of making it work, do you watch Project Runway?

I have watched Project Runway, but I'm not a devout watcher of it. But I think it's a great show, what I've seen of it, and I think Tim Gunn is a very positive, amazing guy.

I ask because they'll often dismiss something on the show as looking "too costumey," and I'm wondering if you take offense to that.

No, because I think the street world that it's in is different. People like to stir up the fashion vs. costume world, and I think what they mean by "too costumey" is that it's too much, or not real enough for everyday wear. You couldn't say that about John Galliano's shows, right? I mean they're awesome and they're total costume. It's just a different thing. They do like to slag off costumes a bit -- not on that show, but in the fashion world. I don't know why they feel they have to compete.

Are you ever tempted to, or maybe you do, design your own clothes?

You know, it's strange. Like, I've designed my Oscar dresses and my people have made them for me, but my own clothes per se that I wear? No -- but I do a lot of fitting. Like I'll buy something and completely recut it. I'm so used to thinking that my clothes are fairly neutral, it's other people's clothes I like to design.

Next up you're working on yet another Johnny Depp film -- The Rum Diary. What's the look you're going for there?

Well, it's real. It's a guy that goes to Puerto Rico in 1960, who's kind of like an average guy. He shows up with very few clothes. There's contrasts in the story, between the haves and the have-nots, the Union Carbides vs. the locals, so I pushed that side of the contrast a bit. But it's very research-oriented and real clothes a lot.

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